Grand Canyon Hike: South Kaibab Trail - Tonto Trail West - Bright Angel Trail

Updated on April 1, 2018
Ramkitten2000 profile image

Deb thru-hiked the Appalachian Trail and is a Search & Rescue volunteer and writer living in Flagstaff, AZ.

Have You Been to the Grand Canyon?

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A Long Dayhike or Perfect Overnight Trip in the National Park

I just did this 13-mile hike for the fourth time, and each time has been different. The same canyon trails change with the seasons, the weather, the company (or lack thereof), and where I happen to look and stop for a rest.

This is one of my favorite day-hikes in Grand Canyon, which can be broken up into two days (with a backcountry camping permit), with the climb back to the south rim on the second day, when you're fresh from a good night's sleep at Indian Gardens. Or spend additional nights at the Indian Gardens campground to explore the area and relax in what I think is one of the most beautiful places on earth.

Here are some photos and information about this hike. Feel free to ask any questions you might have in the guestbook below.

**But a few words of caution first: I would not attempt this hike in a single day unless a) you've already done at least one shorter dayhike below the rim, and b) you're in good cardiovascular shape. The climb out at the end of the day can be a doozy (and even a danger to your health) if you're not fit and used to desert hiking at some altitude.

The photos on this page were all taken by me. See more of my photos in my Grand Canyon photo album.

A Helpful Canyon Hiking Guide

There are 15 hikes included from the South Rim and 13 hikes from the North Rim.

Want to do them all? (I do!)

This book includes descriptions and detailed maps for all of the park's developed trails as well as tips on safety, hiking with children, access, and services.

Guide Features

  • Hikes for every ability
  • Directions to trailheads
  • Trail Finder for best day- and overnight hikes for families, moderate day hikes, strenuous day hikes, and backpacking trips for all levels
  • Comprehensive trail descriptions with mile-by-mile directional cues
  • Difficulty ratings, average hiking times, and best hiking seasons for each featured hike
  • Information on fees, contacts, lodging and campgrounds, and more

Have You Done This or Any Other Grand Canyon Hike?

That is, have you ever hiked below the rim of the Canyon?

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South Kaibab Trail
South Kaibab Trail

Getting to the South Kaibab Trailead at Yaki Point to Begin Your Hike

This isn't a loop, so you won't end where you begin....

The Yaki Point Road and South Kaibab Trail parking lot are closed to private vehicles (unless you have an accessibility permit). So, you will need to ride a free Park shuttle bus to access the trailhead.

Park in Grand Canyon Village and go to any one of the nearby shuttle stops.

Take the blue route shuttle to the Visitor Center, then transfer to the orange route shuttle to get to the trailhead.

You'll end your hike at the top of the Bright Angel Trail, back in Grand Canyon Village, so you can easily walk back to your vehicle.

See the National Park Service website for more information about the Grand Canyon Shuttle Bus routes and to download a transit map.

There's also an early morning Hiker's Express Shuttle Bus, which departs from Bright Angel Lodge on the hour, with a second stop at the Backcountry Information Center, a third stop at Grand Canyon Visitor Center, and a last stop at South Kaibab Trailhead. (From December through February, this bus departs only at 8:00 a.m. and 9:00 a.m.)

From here, you'll begin your hike, starting with the series of switchbacks referred to as the "drainpipe." And you'll see why. Just watch your footing. You aren't going to fall off the edge unless you really try, but you could land on your butt if you slip on loose gravel on top of a hard-packed trail. And you'll likely have an audience, as this first part of the South Kaibab trail is quite heavily used.

I personally recommend using trekking poles to help stay upright, not to mention lessen the impact on your knees.

Ooh-Aah Point, South Kaibab Trail - A popular turn-around point for those who want just a taste of what it's like to hike below the rim.

Ooh-Ah Point, South Kaibab Trail, Grand Canyon
Ooh-Ah Point, South Kaibab Trail, Grand Canyon

About three-quarters of a mile after beginning your descent on the South Kaibab Trail, you'll come to this aptly named point, which got its title from hikers who turn to the west and say, "Ooh," then turn to the east and follow that up with an "Aah." (Or vice versa)

South Kaibab Trail to the Tip-Off - One of two maintained "corridor" trails on the south side of Grand Canyon

South Kaibab Trail, Grand Canyon
South Kaibab Trail, Grand Canyon

As mentioned, the South Kaibab trail is well-maintained by the Park, but it's relatively steep in places and, being a ridge trail, is exposed to the sun the whole way down all day long. So this is an especially hot trail in the summer months, and there's no water available at all. For this reason, the South Kaibab is not the ascending trail of choice when hiking back to the rim from the river. The majority of hikers prefer to descend the South Kaibab and ascend the longer Bright Angel Trail to the west, which offers more shade and opportunities to refill your water bottles.

At 1.5 miles down from the rim on the South Kaibab Trail, you'll reach a large, flat area called Cedar Ridge, where you'll find an outhouse and good places to take a load off and rest for a bit while taking in the view. This is another popular turn-around point for a shorter day-hike.

At 3 miles from the rim, you'll reach Skeleton Point.

Junction With Tonto Trail West - This is the little sign you're looking for, on your left as you head down the trail on the Tonto Platform....

Tonto Trail West, Grand Canyon
Tonto Trail West, Grand Canyon

The junction of the South Kaibab Trail and Tonto Trail is located 4.4 miles from the rim, just before the Tipoff, where the South Kaibab Trail leaves the Tonto Plateau for the descent to the Colorado River. Here you'll find a solar-powered outhouse for your convenience before you turn to the west.

About a quarter-mile beyond this junction (on the South Kaibab Trail), there's an emergency phone on the east side of the trail.

If you're doing this 13-mile dayhike, you're going to turn to the west on the Tonto Trail. Except for a couple of glimpses, you won't see the Colorado River on this hike.

Crossing the Tonto Platform - A 76-mile unmaintained trail

Tonto Trail, Grand Canyon
Tonto Trail, Grand Canyon

The 4.6-mile section of the Tonto Trail between the South Kaibab and Bright Angel trails is the most heavily traveled portion of this east-west trail and the easiest to follow, due to the number of people who tread on it. Camping along the Tonto Trail is allowed by permit only and only at certain use areas, but there is little water available. Your best bet is Pipe Creek, but check with the backcountry office to see if it's running. And always filter water from backcountry sources that don't come from potable water spickets, such as those on the Bright Angel Trail.

I recommend wearing long pants -- such as convertible pants, so you can remove the bottom portions later -- while hiking on the Tonto. While this particular section isn't as overgrown as other parts of the Tonto Trail, you can get quite scraped up by the brush if you wear shorts.

Also, heat is extreme on the exposed Tonto Trail during the late spring to early fall, so if you really want to hike across parts of the Tonto Platform during that time of year, hike early or hike late and carry a LOT of water -- more than you think you'll need.

Pipe Creek - A nice spot to stop for a rest, a short distance from the Tonto Trail

Pipe Creek Drainage, Grand Canyon
Pipe Creek Drainage, Grand Canyon

About two miles from the junction of the South Kaibab Trail and the Tonto Trail, you'll come to Pipe Canyon and little Pipe Creek. A short detour from the Tonto Trail will bring you to this nice spot for a rest and snack or lunch break. A short distance further, you come to the pour-off.

Looking Down on Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel Campground, on the Colorado River and Bright Angel Creek

Phantom Ranch, Grand Canyon
Phantom Ranch, Grand Canyon

Offering bunkhouses and cabins, Phantom Ranch is the only lodging below the rim of Grand Canyon. There is also a canteen where meals, beverages, and sundries are available. No backcountry permit is required, but reservations must be made -- usually far in advance -- through Xanterra. Reservations are accepted up to 13 months in advance.

After crossing the Colorado River via suspension bridge and half a mile before reaching Phantom Ranch, you'll come to Bright Angel Campground. Unlike Phantom Ranch, which is operated by a concessionaire, Bright Angel Campground is run by the Park Service, so a backcountry permit is required to stay here.

Phantom Ranch is located 10 miles from the Bright Angel Trailhead and 7 miles from the So. Kaibab Trailhead. Guests can access Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel Campground on foot, by mule or by boat.

Tonto Trail to Bright Angel Trail and Indian Gardens - Approaching the oasis in the desert

Tonto Trail junction with Bright Angel Trail
Tonto Trail junction with Bright Angel Trail

Nine miles from the start of your hike, you'll reach the end of the Tonto Trail section and the oasis in the desert, called Indian Gardens. Here, you'll find shade ramadas, potable water year-round, a ranger station, mule corrals, and a campground. You can also dip your feet and cool off in Garden Creek.

If you can get a permit to camp at Indian Gardens, this is a great way to break this hike up into two days (or more). From Indian Gardens, you can make the 3-mile, round-trip, easy hike out to Plateau Point, where you can look down another 1,000 feet to the Colorado River.

From Indian Gardens, you have 4.6 miles and nearly 3,000 feet of elevation gain on the Bright Angel Trail to reach the South Rim. There are two rest houses at 3 miles and 1.5 miles from the rim, and potable water available seasonally (from May thru September) at each. Check with the Grand Canyon backcountry office to be sure if the water is on or off. There are also outhouses located at these points.

Wildflowers in Grand Canyon - Finding a foothold in the desert

Wildflowers in Grand Canyon
Wildflowers in Grand Canyon

When my friends and I did this hike in late April, lots of different kinds and colors of wildflowers were beginning to bloom, some of them popping out of the tiniest cracks and crevices.

There are approximately 650 herbaceous wildflowers found in Grand Canyon National Park, including the following (Click on the names to see photos of these flowers):

White flowers:

Yellow flowers:

Red or orange flowers:

Pink and purple flowers:

Source: NPS

A Field Guide to the Grand Canyon 2nd Edition
A Field Guide to the Grand Canyon 2nd Edition
Identify the flowers and other wildlife.

Learn About & Identify Grand Canyon Flora, Fauna, and Geology - ... from the rim or as you hike

Take your time and stop to smell the cactus flowers (and maybe a little eau de mule) as you hike. I like to carry a guide and match the images with what I'm actually looking at -- a self-guided tour that gives me all kinds of goodies with which to entertain and educate my friends on future hikes.

One reviewer writes, "Handy easy-to-use guide to birds, flowers, cacti, wildflowers, reptiles, mammals, geology of the grand canyon. Nothing like it anywhere."

Grand Canyon flowers
Grand Canyon flowers | Source

All About Hiking and Backpacking the Corridor Trails of Grand Canyon - An educational tour on DVD

Backpack the Grand Canyon-A Scenic Guide for the Bright Angel, South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trails
Backpack the Grand Canyon-A Scenic Guide for the Bright Angel, South Kaibab and North Kaibab Trails
From the director - "Join my three hiking partners and me as we begin hiking in the Grand Canyon for the first time. We fumble (and sometimes stumble) down the dusty scenic trails while discovering the magnificent wonders of the canyon. Originally, we had all planned for that first hike to be our only trip to the bottom, but that is not the way things worked out. We are all obsessed with the canyon and have returned again and again. We think you will feel the same way. Explore the Bright Angel Trail down to the Colorado River and Phantom Ranch. If you are adventurous, take the steep and dry South Kaibab Trail. For the most awe inspiring views from the main trails, creep along the towering cliffs of the North Kaibab Trail. Learn about permits, techniques and skills that you need to camp in the inner canyon. Find out what to expect when you reach Indian Garden, Bright Angel and Cottonwood campgrounds. Take side trips from the main trails to explore waterfalls and Native American ruins that most people never see. Get a close up view of the plants and animals that live in the bottom of canyon--some of them unique to the area. Experience the solitude and clear beauty of the North Rim in winter. You may be the only person camping on the North Rim! Get a glimpse of the treacherous Hermit and Clear Creek Trails with exciting footage of rafters going down Granite Rapids. Most of all, learn how to be safe and enjoy your experience hiking and backpacking in the Grand Canyon."

This content is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge and is not meant to substitute for formal and individualized advice from a qualified professional.

© 2011 Deb Kingsbury

Comments or Questions About This or Other Grand Canyon Hikes? Share them here....

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    • Ramkitten2000 profile imageAUTHOR

      Deb Kingsbury 

      20 months ago from Flagstaff, Arizona

      Great job! This hike doesn't go all the way to the river (to the bridge), so it's not quite as long as what you did. This hike goes down South Kaibab, across the Tonto (near the tip-off) and then up Bright Angel Trail. Or you could go the other direction, of course. Going to the river and back in a day, though, is quite a trek, even without a "dad bod" (or was that "bad bod?" :-) )

    • profile image

      Giovanni Frigo 

      20 months ago

      I did it yesterday, 11/20/2018. Started at 7:15 am and arrived at 2:15 pm so it took me 7 hours. I was at the bottom for lunch near Silver bridge at 9:30 am. The last hour up was hard. I think poles are essential in both directions. I had back surgery two years ago and I did it in 7 hours despite my dad bod. So I think anybody with some degree of physical and mental strength can do it in under 8 hours ish. Enjoy!

    • profile image


      6 years ago

      Nice photos and lens, I made the mistake of not leaving enough time to hike the canyon when I visited last time and am definitely going back to hike and camp in it one day.

    • profile image


      7 years ago

      Oh wow! What a great hike and some brilliant photos Deb. One day, maybe one day......

    • profile image

      Mamaboo LM 

      8 years ago

      Thanks so much for your lens. I think perhaps the biggest mistake people make is to not go on trails and really explore the grand canyon and it's hiking trails. There's so much for beauty (as your lens has brought out) that can be seen, if you just walk it! Be Blessed

    • profile image

      Michey LM 

      8 years ago

      Come back to send Angel dust your way, it really is my type of lens.

    • profile image


      9 years ago

      Great hiking page.Nice lens with so much beautiful pictures.Thanks.

    • profile image

      Michey LM 

      9 years ago

      You have beautiful pictures,and an informative lens. I enjoy immensely your lens!

      Regards Michey

    • Diana Wenzel profile image

      Renaissance Woman 

      9 years ago from Colorado

      Always appreciate the very thorough information and tips. Excellent resource. The photos really take me there. I'm sprinkling some stardust on this trail. **blessed** Thank you!

    • RuthCoffee profile image

      Ruth Coffee 

      9 years ago from Zionsville, Indiana

      Absolutely LOVED your photographs, sounds like a fabulous hike.

    • Faye Rutledge profile image

      Faye Rutledge 

      9 years ago from Concord VA

      Thanks for the wonderful Grand Canyon hike! I love hiking through your lenses! :)

    • OhMe profile image

      Nancy Tate Hellams 

      9 years ago from Pendleton, SC

      Wonderful photos and description of a beautiful place. Well done. I have only been to the Grand Canyon one time but would like to return one day.

    • sheriangell profile image


      9 years ago

      This looks like a wonderful experience. I loved the photos and how you linked over to the images of all those wildflowers. I've been to the Grand Canyon, but unfortunately didn't hike while there, I would love to do that one day.

    • profile image

      luvmyludwig lm 

      9 years ago

      beautiful pics of the Grand Canyon, looks like a great place to hike.

    • MargoPArrowsmith profile image


      9 years ago

      I have an original photo on my wall with my great grandmother and a group of Masons and wives on burros with a guide and a sign that says 1914. They were going to the base of the Grand Canyon. They all, including the women, have three piece suits and Windsor knotted ties. My, how things have changed!


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